Rocks, Water, and Peace in HaLong Bay
- Kels
- May 11, 2019
- 5 min read
The reason Vietnam was on my travel bucket list in the first place was to go to HaLong Bay. A few years ago a friend of mine posted some Instagram photos she had taken there on her vacation and it looked so magical I had to go.
I have to say, this was one case when last minute planning served me very well. I arrived in Hanoi without knowing what I was going to do, just knowing that it was the gateway to many beautiful natural adventures. There are so many options for cruises on the bay, but I'd read a recommendation on a blog for one that offered a bit more seclusion, off the path of the other tourist boats. It cost a bit more, but it was totally worth it. Where the luck came in was I got a big discount by booking the day before it left. I'm not sure if that would have worked out in peak season, but right now it's not the busiest time for tourists. After staying in bunk rooms in hostels, having my own private room (and bathtub) was amazing.
I stepped into my room, the first one I'd slept without roommates in for 10 days (and the nicest once I've slept in the whole trip) and knew I made the right choice. Here is what heaven looks like to a long term traveler:
I was happy for a bit of solitude, but I was equally grateful to meet Laurie, the only other person who had chosen to come on the boat alone. I went in being prepared to make friends, but still, sitting down to lunch the first day alone would have felt a bit lonely looking at all of the families, couples, and friends who had come together. Instead my new French Canadian friend ordered a glass of wine with lunch. I think there is nothing a truly relaxing as having a glass of wine with lunch. It implies you have nothing to worry about for the rest of the day. It gives you the time to just sit and savor the moment. And the moment was quite beautiful.
Over our multi course (!) lunch our boat floated through stunning rock formation after stunning rock formation. The water was turquoise, the sky misty but bright. We didn't have the perfect sunny day that I'd seen in pictures, but the overcast felt more right in this setting. It made me feel like it was okay to just sit and watch the beauty go by beside me, there was no need to do anything. When you are traveling it is difficult to not do things. There is always the voice in the back of your head saying 'this may be the only time you'll ever be in Vietnam, get as much in as you can!' or 'the day trip to the coast sounds awesome!' or 'the friends I met an hour ago are doing it, I don't want to miss out'. Which works fine if you are on a two week vacation. But when you two week vacation turns into a six month trip around the world it turns out you need a few days off. Halong Bay was the perfect place to take a break while also not missing out on anything :)
After our long lunch, we put down anchor in a remote bay and spent the rest of the afternoon kayaking and exploring the majestic rocks up close.
And that evening I had cocktails, learned how to make spring rolls, and met the interesting people who happened to be in the same place I was. I've continuously found this interesting while traveling. Who are these people? Why are there here? Not just in Vietnam, not just in this bay, but on this exact boat with me? There was an American family from the San Juans, one daughter was teaching English in Hanoi and her Mother, Sister, and Niece had come to visit her. A few British couples traveling for two weeks on their annual vacation. A Polish woman and her 10 year old daughter who lived in Tokyo, the daughter spoke four languages fluently; Polish, Japanese, French, and English and was also pretty good at winning Mexican Train when I taught it to her.
The next morning I woke up to this...
After a 6:45 Tai Chi class on the deck of the ship it was time for breakfast, then a leisurely coffee as we sailed on to our next inlet.
I'm hoping the pictures speak for themselves, about how wonderful this place is. But to really have the feeling you would have to imagine this same view for 360 degrees. As I was sitting here, having my picture taken, I was looking out onto more rocks rising out of the sea.
After coffee, we were transported to little rowing boats, to see a closer view of a small community of fisherman and Oyster farmers that live in float houses out in the bay.
That afternoon I chose again to not do anything. There was an option to kayak again (which I love to do), but instead, I gave myself permission to relax; to start a new book, and enjoy the phenomenal view from my bathtub.
That evening I had a great dinner with my new friend. She is French Canadian, and has been a nurse for 10 years. On New Years Day she broke up with her boyfriend of 5 years and decided to change her life. She has a fascinating job, she works with Inuit people in very very northern Quebec. She works for two months up in the village, and then is flow back home for 4-6 weeks at a time. She enjoys her work, despite the odd schedule it allows her to travel for extended periods of time a few times a year. But it's also challenging to see the struggles that face the people of the community she serves. They are people who were born in igloo's into the 1950's and now have cell phones and WiFi. And you thought our world was changing quickly.
After dinner I joined the group of British people, who had all become friends on the trip for a rousing game of Uno and a few beers. Resulting in me teaching my first yoga class outside of my training around midnight, with eager, but slightly unsteady students.
The last day was shorter, breakfast and the sail back to the port. As our tour guide described it to us, the first day was the appetizer, the second day the main course, and the last day the dessert. I loved this imagery. Usually on the last day of something I am sad to see it end, resulting in me rushing to start the next thing as soon as possible. But framing the experience as dessert meant that I could savor it, slow down and enjoy the last moments of peace before heading back into the busy city.
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